I've assembled the pattern and it looks like it will work much better than the 5 out of 4 Joanna shirt. Jalie 3130 shirt has similar lines to a Worthington Petite button-up blouse I bought 15 years ago, so I'm using it and my fitted Itch to Stitch Bonn bodice as jumping off points for alterations here.
Alterations I've already made to the pattern pieces:
- Moved waist up 2.5".
- Shortened waist diamond darts by 4.5". I left the top dart point in place since it didn't look too far off, moved the base up to match the waist point, and then redrew all my lines. (Thanks to my lovely lady lumps, my effective shoulder-to-bust length is pretty normal. The actual space between skeleton pieces is much smaller than average, though!)
- Re-drew back waist & hip curve, but not the front. The front is fairly straight so moving the waist up didn't affect much. The back piece is where the waist & hip shaping is happening.
Alterations I suspect I will make after muslin 1:
- Bring up bottom of the armscye by about 1/4"
- Narrow shoulder adjustment. Comparing pattern pieces, it looks like roughly .75" might be need to be taken out on each shoulder, but I want to get the collar on to be sure.
- Fix the sleeve cap to match the new armscye curve
- More dart manipulation
- Shorten sleeves to hit 1" above bust dart point
- Cut off about 3" from the hem; straighten hem to gentle curve
I think I'll need 2, maybe 3, muslins to get this one right. (If I'm not lucky with the darts/shoulders, it could be 4 toiles.)