GoToBed

Mountains? yes please.

  • He/Him

Alpinism, Mountaineering, Climbing. If rock exists I desire to perch atop it.

posts from @GoToBed tagged #knots

also:

Yes that's right as promised pictures of my favorite knots tied in various ropes of mine. Today we see the Alpine Butterfly.

This is a personal favorite because it's pretty, fun to tie, and functional.

Description

The alpine butterfly can be tied anywhere along a length of rope or cord. When tied correctly it will not slide or roll in either direction no matter how it is weighted.

Pros:

  • easy to untie even after heavy weighting
  • can be tied anywhere along the length of cord
  • Safe to weight in any direction
  • Easy to determine if tied correctly
  • Just a real cutie
  • Easy to tie even in gloves

Cons:

  • unusual method to tie makes learning slightly difficult
  • uses decent amount of rope
  • Annoying to adjust once tied

Uses

So many. A few of the more common uses are...

  • Can join multiple climbers together on a single strand such as for glacier travel or, less commonly, multiple followers on a single rope.
  • Can be used to isolate damaged sections of rope so the rest is still usable.
  • Anchor building and equalizing anchors especially when anchors are complex and have multiple fairly distant components