masklayer

UAhh I'm gonna be sick ! OH

uhhhhhhhhh

Tom | 31 | 🦌🌐

<3 @clip <3

 


 

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opinions my own & do not reflect those of my employer ;3


Side note also o my god. I need to start using PLA instead of PETG for prototype…

I had been doing almost everything in petg because I really like the look of a couple prusament petg colors and it’s the best material I had in black but the higher temp causes so much more stringiness and yucky edges that need cleanup… the gray one I took pictures of was this protopasta pla I got on sale and it was so much easier… I forgot it made a noticeable difference


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in reply to @masklayer's post:

yeah PLA is sooooooo much easier to print and the only problem is that it absolutely sucks as a structural material

also I just printed my first stuff in ASA and it's amazing, the structural qualities of ABS but also it doesn't automatically turn into a banana and it doesn't turn yellow in sunlight

For these tripod plates I’m still really into MJF PA12 nylon a la shapeways for the final products, I like the texture and it’s really stiff… I had been using petg for the finals that I make at home because of the better temperature resistance and stiffness but yeah I definitely need to stop using it for prototypes. Need to try ASA sometime too though yeah…..

oh yeah I still need to try carbon-fiber nylon at some point, unfortunately I live in the Humidity Nexus and also don't have any abrasion-resistant nozzles so it's a bit of effort to get that going

Ah yeah I need to get a hardened nozzle too. What I also really want is like a really big diameter nozzle. When my partner moves here I think they're going to bring their printer too so I'm excited about the idea of having two setups and one could be a weird/specialized nozzle maybe

yeah, my printer has an E3D revo on it and being able to do nozzle-swaps one-handed with no tools absolutely kicks ass -- big nozzles are good, if nothing else, for being able to do vase mode prints that aren't half a millimeter thick

O neat... I should consider trying that. Do you have to redo first layer calibration after swaps? Because that's the main reason I was imagining having two setups, one with a standard normal brass nozzle that we don't change, and one which we use for specialized things, just so we'd always have one ready to go which didn't need calibration...

E3D says you don't -- that the nozzles are manufactured under tight enough tolerances that they all come out the same length -- but my printer does z calibration with the tip of the nozzle (it's a Voron with Voron Tap) so I have no idea whether that's actually true or not in practice

Oh and also the thing with shapeways/other MJF nylon is it's not a filament process, I think it's a form of SLS, so the final product is slightly grainy and rough instead of having layer lines which is the other main reason I like it for finished things... (I know I could put effort into smoothing stuff)